So pretty, isn’t it? Its a “cheater” finish done by a serger, on a wall hanging.
So you think you might want a serger, right? So what to look for when shopping…..
My first question is how much should I spend? I used to get lots of requests for “Just something cheap and easy to use in case I don’t use it”. I can guarantee if you go the cheapest route possible, you will hate it. And you won’t use it. Obviously you, the reader, must use the internet or you wouldn’t be here. Check out reviews and read what others are buying. In general, don’t go to JoAnn Fabrics and buy the one that is on sale. White sergers are not good, neither are Simplicity. There is a lot of respect for a Brother 1034D, which I will be doing some demos with a bit later. That machine is usually $200 – $300. My baby is a Babylock Evolve. They have a new model, the Babylock Evolution. Please excuse me while I wipe away the drool. I don’t want my Evolve to feel unloved. However, those machines are over $2000.
If you have been around for a while, you might have noticed that a lot of sewists purchase older SEWING machines, quality used SEWING machines. This isn’t necessarily true with sergers. The timing that must take place for everything to work correctly is advanced. As machines get older, especially if they are not used or maintained, sometimes that goes out of whack. There are some exceptions, generally if the serger is 10 years old or less, its going to be okay. If you feel the need to go this route, find a reputable sewing shop that can help you out.
So what to look for a in a machine. Often you will notice that machines will say, “4/3/2 thread” or “4/3 thread”. I’m sure the first time I heard this I freaked out too. How many threads? What do you do with all of those? Its not as bad as you think. There are no bobbins, so that takes away one worry. Everything comes straight off the cone.
As for the number of threads…..it doesn’t REALLY matter. The 2-thread function is that of a flatlock. Its a neat stitch, but one that isn’t used a whole lot. Kind of like having a compass in your new car. Sure, its neat and cute, but how often do you use it? I have one and its pretty rare unless I’m lost. Which I will never admit to, so there. You DO want a 4-thread capability. Older sergers may have only 3-threads. Please avoid this as your main machine.
Next, you definitely WANT differential feed. This is a knob or dial someplace on the machine that will move to things like “1.8” and “.6”, as well as other numbers. If it makes you feel better, ask. Just say, “Does this model have differential feed?” See, you already know what you are talking about and sound like an expert. Differential feed puts drag or pressure on fabric and makes sewing with knits (think a t-shirt, things that stretch) a lovely experience. If the machine does NOT have differential feed, walk away. Its that important. Really. Trust me. This is the ONLY thing that you must look for in a serger.
Other than differential feed, sergers are kind of all similar. The higher end ones have very precision tensions, double cammed tensions, tubular threading, better knives, higher quality metal parts that make timing more stable and sometimes, as with my Evolve, thread delivery systems which eliminate the need for tensions.
A word about tensions……its a 4 letter word or is often proceeded by one. Don’t stress about it. Its not rocket science.
Now lets talk a bit about thread. You don’t want to walk out of the store without some basic starter goodies, right? Thread is the most important one. I know you have sewing thread. And thats great. Serger thread is a bit different. Its usually a 3-strand. This works great for sergers, but please don’t look at the cost difference and load up the trusty sewing machine with the same thread. The beginning investment is higher, but the cones last a LONG time. And foot for foot, yard for yard, its far cheaper than the spools of thread you buy for your sewing machine.
This is a comparison of different threads. Its hard to see, but serger thread is thinner and fuzzier than regular sewing thread. That wooly stuff on the right is a common serger thread, I’ll get to that in a few days. I recommend to those starting out to get a full set of white (4 cones) and black (4 cones too!). This will get you through a lot of projects. If you need another color, its most important to match the needles (oh yeah, there are 2 of those in a serger). For instance, if you need to sew a pink garment, I might pick up 2 pink cones for the needles and use 2 of my white ones. Over time, you buy other full sets of thread.
What thread to buy and it does make a difference. I buy only Maxilock or Venus Spun (if I can find it). There is another good brand that you can find in warehouses sometimes, but I can’t remember the name of it. Please skip the ultra lock or sure lock or anything else you find super cheap in a bin at JoAnns, Hancocks or any other sewing place. It tends to be slubby. Thats a technical term, you know…LOL. Slubbiness causes issues with the tensions and can lead to damage and to broken needles. And no one likes broken needles. Which means no one likes slubbiness. In fact, the next time you get mad at someone you can tell them that they are “slubby”. At least you can giggle while you do it.
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